The weight of a wave

How big is the largest wave you’ve ever surfed? If you’re proud of a wave’s height, it’s time to take a look at the weight of the waves you can’t escape. Getting pounded. We know how it hurts. Whether we get caught on the inside or we miss an unexpected wave set, it’s always tough […]

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How big is the largest wave you’ve ever surfed? If you’re proud of a wave’s height, it’s time to take a look at the weight of the waves you can’t escape. Getting pounded. We know how it hurts. Whether we get caught on the inside or we miss an unexpected wave set, it’s always tough to feel the weight of the salted water on our head and back. When a wave breaks, it loses part of its energy. But until then, those liquid curtains will not wait for the rider’s lucky escape, in order to fall over the flats. It’s heavy stuff, no doubt about that.

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The weight of a wave

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