Donn Ito, the man behind the blog “Quantum Surf Physics,” reveals the secrets behind many unfinished rides. Blame it on the surfer; blame it on the surfboard. There are many reasons why we fall off a surfboard. But understanding what causes surfboard’s rocker to stick can reduce wipeouts. Below is a sequence of Mark Foo’s last ride. Note the spray shooting from under Mark’s board. It is generating a wake after a free fall. Mark struggles to maintain his balance but is pitched.

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Why the surfboard’s nose rocker sometimes sticks

boat, brown, hawaii, hawaiian, modern, rail, surfers, vulnerability, water