Diffraction is a sudden change in the direction and intensity of waves after passing by a coastal feature or offshore obstruction. The obstacle will block a portion of the wave’s energy, forcing it to spread into the sheltered area behind the obstruction. For example, if a west or southwest swell reaches a south-facing surf spot […]
Around 10 percent of the world’s population is left-handed. In the surfing world, you can often hear someone saying they’re goofy or goofy-footed. But what does that exactly mean? And when was the term goofy surfer first used? A goofy-footed surfer is a surfer who rides a surfboard with their left foot as the back […]
One of the great things about surfing is that you will never ride two identical waves. Sometimes, the best plan to break away from monotony, crowded lineups, and orthodoxy is to unfollow the norm and the informal, pre-established rules. Skateboarding, for instance, although a relatively new sport, found its own rebellious mode and quickly set a […]
My scalp prickles, and I glance back at the jungle. My mind is suddenly thick with panic. I’m convinced that Joro is about to explode out of the trees, his bow raised. Looking down at the clothes and water in my hands, I realize that I have to get rid of them before anyone sees […]
Sooner or later, the ambition of most surfers leads them to think of the big surf. The fact that there are probably no more than 50 people alive who consistently ride the biggest waves and that these people are usually lifeguards or champion swimmers is no deterrent. The big surf is the secret aim of […]
I don’t know who I’d be if my brother hadn’t left an unreturned copy of Viktor Frankl’s “Man’s Search for Meaning” laying around the house. There are many lives within a life, each searching for meaning. Ryan Masters lives in a box canyon in the Santa Cruz Mountains. He’s a writer, a bodysurfer, and had […]
The CEO of the World Surf League (WSL) announced that the 2020 Billabong Pipe Masters will resume after a pause of several days. Erik Logan plans to run the competition taking advantage of “a promising forecast.” The first stop on the 2021 Championship Tour (CT) was suspended on December 12 due to positive Covid-19 tests […]
The World Surf League (WSL) suspended the 2020 Billabong Pipe Masters due to positive Covid-19 tests within its WSL staff. Erik Logan, CEO of WSL, tested positive for the novel coronavirus. “We prioritize the safety of the athletes, staff, and surrounding community, and we’re working closely and transparently with the Hawaii State Department of Health […]
One of the great things about being a surfer is getting to know a lot of Hawaiians. Babe Kane and his brother Billy were the first. Babe was quiet and studious. Billy was effervescent and wild and always surfed with a beaming smile. One time, I even saw him wiping out and going over the […]
Waves are a dynamic force that is often created in open ocean thousands of miles away from the shore and breaks near the coastline. From an oceanographic and coastal morphologic perspective, the power of a wave can be broken down into two main categories: destructive waves and constructive waves. A constructive wave is a low-energy […]