Finding meaning in a bottom-turn
As surfers, we spend most of our days craving for waves. Checking surf forecasts – God knows how many sites we visit – exchanging messages with other surf heads to get last minute reports, and looking for a time window when we can sneak a nice session in between our daily obligations. There’s this unknown force that […]
As surfers, we spend most of our days craving for waves. Checking surf forecasts – God knows how many sites we visit – exchanging messages with other surf heads to get last minute reports, and looking for a time window when we can sneak a nice session in between our daily obligations. There’s this unknown force that drives our attention towards surf, with the promise of a session that would bring all those feelings and emotions from a certain special day back.
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Finding meaning in a bottom-turn
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