Summer is always a synonym of surfing. Can you imagine surfing without summer and vice-versa? We can’t. But not everything is perfect. Wake up, go to the beach, catch some waves, refresh a bit in the shade, relax under the sun, surf a bit more, get some rest and repeat – that is the perfect holiday plan for a surfer in the summer. It’s that time of year when it feels good to catch a wave, end the session with a fresh orange juice or a cold beer, and spend some time with your friends discussing who got the best wave, and which beach will you be exploring the next day. The days are long and sunny, the water is warm, and there is time for everything.
When you first start surfing, to many people it may look like “just a phase,” or something that you’ll eventually end up leaving behind. Can surfing endure the test of time? For most surfers, surfing runs deep and ends up becoming a part of who they are. But life is tough, and things keep changing. When you move to an inland city, embrace a demanding career or start building a family, your time to surf begins to shorten. Yes, you get excited every time you see someone surfing, you still check the conditions when drive by the ocean, but riding waves becomes more difficult to fit in your schedule.
Is surfing just a phase?
Sitting on a surfboard and pivoting is one of the first things you’ll need to master when learning how to surf. It requires balance and practice. Surfers sit down on their boards to wait for the waves. The technique has many advantages. For example, it allows you to keep an eye on the best sets from a higher perspective. If you’re simply laid prone on a surfboard waiting for the action, you’ll lose a lot of precious swell information. Sitting on the board will also enable you to turn the board faster toward the beach when you decide to catch a wave.
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How to sit on a surfboard
Jamie Mitchell fractured his sternum after suffering a wipeout in Puerto Escondido, Mexico. The Californian surfer-waterman got barreled on a giant right-hander, but the wave closed out. The surfboard eventually hit Mitchell in the chest, and he made it to the shore in agonizing pain. Jamie Mitchell couldn’t breathe or call for help, so he took a few waves on the head before the lifeguards reached him. According to the big wave rider, everything happened when he was trying to catch his last wave of the session.
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Jamie Mitchell breaks sternum at Puerto Escondido
Five hundred eleven surfers have broken the Guinness World Record for the largest paddle out ever recorded, at Huntington Beach, California. Despite the fog, the strong currents, and the choppy waters, 511 surfers were able to form an unbroken “Surfing Circle of Honor” to raise awareness of the International Surfing Museum. The event attracted people of all ages and experience levels and also helped promote Huntington Beach as the potential surfing village for the 2024 Olympic Games if Los Angeles wins the bid.
511 surfers paddle out at Huntington Beach