Surfing is for life, right? Well, in theory, it should be. But in reality, sometimes the destiny has other plans for our existence. We all remember the first wave proudly rode toward the beach. It is something that we will never forget because it was the moment we became surfers. From the day we stood up on the surfboard for the first time until now, a lot has changed. And that is especially true for people who started surfing in their teens, and are now hitting their 30s and 40s.
5 common reasons people stop surfing
Kanoa Igarashi will represent Japan in the 2018 World Surf League (WSL) Championship Tour. The 20-year-old surfer was born in Huntington Beach, California, but he has dual citizenship – his parents and family are Japanese. With this announcement, Igarashi hopes to compete for the Land of the Rising Sun in the Tokyo 2020 Olympics. Simultaneously, he will become the first ever Japanese athlete on the Dream Tour.
See the article here:
Kanoa Igarashi will surf for Japan in the Championship Tour
Whether you’re metaphorically speaking or taking it extremely seriously, you might have talked or referred to surfing as a religion. And it makes sense. Here’s why. You can’t compare religions. They are what they; they represent what they represent. But if there’s one thing that all the major religions groups – Christianity, Islam, Hinduism, and Buddhism – have in common is faith. Faith guides belief and, when that happens, rationality is put aside. That’s precisely what takes place in our brain when we surf.
Read this article:
Why surfing is a religion
On January 8, 2018, California state legislators, Al Muratsuchi and Ian Calderon introduced a bill that aims to establish surfing as California’s official sport. If recognized and approved, it will be the second time surfing is adopted as official state sport, after being designated in Hawaii in 1998. Interestingly, Hawaii opted for having two formal state sports – an individual sport (surfing) and a team sport (outrigger canoe paddling). Assemblymembers Muratsuchi and Calderon are both passionate surfers and believe surfing represents the spirit of the California dream.
Sharks attacks events are extremely rare, but when they occur, they always make the news and generate a serious social alarm. Despite the flashy headlines, the truth is that humans are not part of the shark’s diet and, in most cases, it privileges the less dangerous hit-and-run attacks. And, in many cases, the injuries and wounds caused by the predator’s teeth are not lethal. Yes, surviving a shark attack is not impossible.