We refer to surfing as “it.” But it could very well be a “she.” Here’s why the essence of surfing is more XX than XY. When we go back to the early days of surfing as an outdoor recreational activity in Hawaii’s Waikiki Beach, the first images that come to mind are of elegance, grace, and relaxation. The local boardriders would glide smoothly across the water, occasionally walking back and forth on the board, much to the appreciation of the tourists.

See the original article here:
Surfing: the ballet of the waves

dry