Teahupoo is one of the deadliest waves on the planet. It can give you the ride of a lifetime, or it can kill you. Known not for its height, but for its weight and thickness, the liquid gem of Tahiti is often compared to a mutant species that can only be tamed by fearless, experienced […]
Donn Ito, the man behind the blog “Quantum Surf Physics,” reveals the secrets behind many unfinished rides. Blame it on the surfer; blame it on the surfboard. There are many reasons why we fall off a surfboard. But understanding what causes surfboard’s rocker to stick can reduce wipeouts. Below is a sequence of Mark Foo’s […]
Aaron Gold suffered a massive wipeout and nearly drowned at Cloudbreak, Fiji. Like many others at Cloudbreak, Gold knew he was surfing a large swell. The Third Reef was pumping, and the 2016 WSL Paddle of the Year winner wanted his share of stoke. The 34-year-old big wave surfer took off on a big wave, […]