Tag Archives: hospital
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Backdoor nearly kills Dusty Payne

Hawaiian surfer Dusty Payne suffered a horrendous wipeout at Pipeline’s Backdoor, on the North Shore of Oahu, and nearly drowned. Payne took off on just another four-foot inside wave at Backdoor but was not able to set his rail, slipped and went down. According to surf photographer Keoki Saguibo, who was in the water taking […]

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Children with special needs go surfing in NY’s Long Beach

Seventeen young patients with cerebral palsy enjoyed the pleasures of surfing in Long Beach, Long Island. The event organized by the Adaptive Sports Academy at New York City’s Hospital for Special Surgery (HSS) had surfers Will and Cliff Skudin teaching the basic lessons to beginners aged from 5 to 21. Despite the initial anxiety and […]

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How does Bethany Hamilton surf with one arm?

To be a surfer you have to love the feeling of surfing. It takes a lot of hard work to catch waves. The learning curve for surfing can be quite steep. If you take lessons and pick the right board shape and size, for the right wave height and speed, you are steps closer to […]

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Jamie Mitchell breaks sternum at Puerto Escondido

Jamie Mitchell fractured his sternum after suffering a wipeout in Puerto Escondido, Mexico. The Californian surfer-waterman got barreled on a giant right-hander, but the wave closed out. The surfboard eventually hit Mitchell in the chest, and he made it to the shore in agonizing pain. Jamie Mitchell couldn’t breathe or call for help, so he […]

Scottish surfer survives 32 hours lost at sea

A surfer survived 32 hours at seas after failing to return to the shores of Machrihanish Beach, on the Argyll coast, in Scotland. Matthew Bryce was found on Monday night by a helicopter, 13 miles off the western coast of Scotland, on top of his surfboard. The 22-year-old surfer was suffering from severe hypothermia. The […]

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Cloudbreak nearly kills Aaron Gold

Aaron Gold suffered a massive wipeout and nearly drowned at Cloudbreak, Fiji. Like many others at Cloudbreak, Gold knew he was surfing a large swell. The Third Reef was pumping, and the 2016 WSL Paddle of the Year winner wanted his share of stoke. The 34-year-old big wave surfer took off on a big wave, […]

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For Greg Long, fear is part of the thrill

Fear is a liberating drug, but if you’re a big wave surfer, it can kill you. Greg Long was invited to share is near-death experience in Cortes Bank, at the National Geographic Live series. “I do feel fear,” Greg Long confirms. The problem is that fear almost ruled his life, with real consequences. When the […]

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How to repair a surfboard ding

It happens all the time. Surfboards are fragile objects of design. Even the most careful surfer will, one day, find a crack on his favorite surfboard. So, how can you fix a surfboard ding and rail shatters? Accessing the damage is a priority. After washing the tears away, we need to analyze carefully how seriously […]

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