Tag Archives: life
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"Big Wednesday": a film about surfing and friendship in times of war

For many surfers, film critics, and surf historians, “Big Wednesday” is the greatest surf movie of all time. The film chronicles the story of three young California surfers – Matt Johnson (Jan-Michael Vincent), Jack Barlowe (William Katt), and Leroy “The Masochist” Smith (Gary Busey) – who breathe and live surfing during the Vietnam War days. […]

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Natxo González surfs a dangerously beautiful wave

Natxo González returned to the scene of the crime, where he once had this wave all for himself. Now, he is sharing his little secret with his friends. It’s a fast, hollow right-hander that breaks in very shallow water. This dreamy beach break looks perfect, but if anything goes wrong, you’re hundreds of miles away […]

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Cloudbreak roars to life

The world’s finest storm chasers were already on red alert. There was something big moving toward Fiji. Kelly Slater said it was a day that will never be forgotten. And we don’t hear him saying it often. On May 25 and 26, Tavarua’s Cloudbreak roared to life, and the big wave surfing community gathered at […]

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Shane Dorian and friends give their life to surfing in "Vague à l’Âme"

A perfect big wave can change your life. Not only it will put you under the media spotlight, but it will also open new sponsorship opportunities, and invitations to elite contests. “Vague à l’Âme” follows Shane Dorian and his partners in crime, Benjamin Sanchis, Justin Becret, and Jack Robinson, as they chase some of the […]

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Things you didn’t know about Laird Hamilton

For many, he is the most complete surfer of all time. Laird Hamilton is a reasonably circumspect person who avoids self-promotion, but he does know how to keep his name in the spotlight. You can’t talk about Laird Hamilton without mentioning his family, the constant workouts, the diet, the achievements, and his innovative contributions to […]

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A world record wave ignored by too many surfers

Rodrigo Koxa may have beaten the world record for the biggest wave ever surfed but, apparently, only Brazilian fans, athletes, and media seem to recognize his feat. The wave ridden at Praia do Norte, Nazaré, on May 4, 2017, reveals the truth about the surfing world- there’s an anglophone side mainly formed by the United […]

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The complete surfer’s first aid kit

Are you planning a surf trip? Make sure you include a surfer’s first aid kit in your baggage. Accidents and injuries happen all the time, and they can be especially tricky to deal with if you’re surfing in isolated, remote destinations, with poor access to healthcare. According to a 2007 study published in the American […]

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5 common reasons people stop surfing

Surfing is for life, right? Well, in theory, it should be. But in reality, sometimes the destiny has other plans for our existence. We all remember the first wave proudly rode toward the beach. It is something that we will never forget because it was the moment we became surfers. From the day we stood […]

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How to wash, dry and hang a wetsuit

After an epic surf session, the last thing you want to do is rinse or wash your wetsuit. However, if you don’t do it quickly, your second skin will start losing its properties, and the neoprene will begin to deteriorate. Taking care of your wetsuit is protecting it against salt water, sand, dirt, grass, and […]

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Kai Lenny, Nick Jacobsen, Zara Davis, and Joana Schenker are "Athletes of the Year 2017" by SurferToday

SurferToday has officially named the “Athletes of the Year 2017.” 2017 has been the year of evolution. The winners of the SurferToday’s “Athletes of the Year” award have all pushed the boundaries of water sports to a whole new level and helped develop their disciplines. Their creativity, their passion for their game, attention to detail […]

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