Surfing’s alley-oop was inspired by the first aerial moves performed by skateboarders in half-pipes. The oceanic version gets surfers flying effortlessly above the wave in one of the boldest tricks you can watch. The best alley-oops in surfing are landed when you head high overhead and, with a little help from an onshore breeze, the […]
Some wipeouts are funny. And then you’re “privileged” enough to taste those tougher beatings. Finally, you’re invited into those free fall experiences in cold water, six-foot waves. Wipeouts are part of the surfing game. But, can we avoid some of them? Yes, wipeouts can (and should) be avoided. Broken boards, broken bones, muscle injuries, and […]
Whether you’re a highly competitive pro surfer, or simply a passionate recreational surfer, you’ve got to master the art of the cutback. It’s the ultimate surf maneuver for speedy A-frame waves with flat spots. The cutback defines modern surfing. Back in the day, when surfboards didn’t have fins, all you could do was catch the […]
What are the parts of a wave? Surfing wouldn’t be a sport without waves. Without waves, surfers wouldn’t be able to walk on water. Let’s take a look at the different components that make a wave… a wave. There are several things we know about waves. We understand – probably since we were children – that […]
Kenneth B. Liberman, Professor Emeritus of Sociology at the University of Oregon, has studied and analyzed the relationships between surfers, the rules of wave riding, and the moral values found in the surf. “Turn-Taking in the Surfers’ Lineup” is one of the most relevant contributions to the knowledge of wave scarcity, surf etiquette, and the corresponding […]
The breaking of waves is studied by fluid dynamics, a sub-discipline of physics that studies the science behind liquids and gases. Scientists have concluded that waves break when their amplitude reaches a critical level that causes large amounts of wave energy to be transformed into turbulent kinetic energy, like a ball rolling down the hill. […]