Surf localism is an aggressive behavior commonly seen in the most crowd surf spots on the planet. When the ancient Hawaiians introduced surfing to the world, it was kind of like the birth of money – it made some people hungry, greedy, and powerful while leaving the majority, thirsty, needy, and destitute. Before California made […]
Randy Rarick, Larry Bertlemann, Mike Haley, John Van Hamersveld, Phyliss O’Donnell, and Vince Moorhouse will be inducted into the Surfing Walk of Fame, on the 31st July, 2014, at Huntington Beach. The votes have been counted. The 100-year anniversary of surfing in Huntington Beach will write the name of six legendary surfers in the history […]
Russell Molony (Central Coast NSW/North Entrance) is the Australian Indigenous Surfing Champion for 2012 after defeating Joe Haddon (Foster/Tuncurry NSW) in excellent two-metre surf at Bells Beach today.
It’s funny that modern surfing is considered a “culture” in an anthropological sense. Studying Hawaiian surfing, or any aboriginal peoples as a culture seems to make sense. But the idea of long hairs who owned three pairs of shorts, traveling about, sleeping in cars and chasing waves as a subject of…