Shaun Tomson on surf academia
It’s funny that modern surfing is considered a “culture” in an anthropological sense. Studying Hawaiian surfing, or any aboriginal peoples as a culture seems to make sense. But the idea of long hairs who owned three pairs of shorts, traveling about, sleeping in cars and chasing waves as a subject of…
It’s funny that modern surfing is considered a “culture” in an anthropological sense. Studying Hawaiian surfing, or any aboriginal peoples as a culture seems to make sense. But the idea of long hairs who owned three pairs of shorts, traveling about, sleeping in cars and chasing waves as a subject of…
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Shaun Tomson on surf academia
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